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matt

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Everything posted by matt

  1. Chris, Congradualtions! Those are some nice nuggets! Hope the patch continues to produce for you in the future. Regarding the motion setting, what did you have it set on? That is one of the settings that I have experimented with the least so far. I usually hunt in one mode, very slow. I guess that setting really depends on the terrain that you are detecing in and if you are in a patch. What was your Motion setting when you found the patch and did you adjust that setting once you realized that you were onto a patch? Thanks for posting. Take Care, Matt
  2. Scout308, Your trip puts you in the Mother Load at the high water time. Getting to most really good spots is difficult. This year may be different though. If I was on a couple day venture to the Mother Load country I would follow the direction of Flakmagnet. Take the Oroville route on 70 to Quincy. There are a lot of places to pan along the Feather, but there are a lot of claims also. From Quincy go to Highway 49 and take it to Sierra City and Downieville. Spend some time in all of these locations. If you can afford it, stay at a place called “The Lure” in Downieville on the North Yuba River. They have a list of “rules”, but you can pan on the property. There is no TV at the Lure so I would buy a book called Bacon and Beans From a Gold Pan and read it at night. There are only a few restaurants in Downieville, but call the Grubsteak to see if they will be open for dinner when you are there. From there I would take 49 to Nevada City and Grass Valley. There is so much to do in these places, you really need spend a lot of time. Stop at the South Yuba Rec Area and pan along the banks. You could spend a couple days in this area. There are mine tours, etc. Then head South to Auburn. You could spend another couple days there. Stop at the confluence of the North and Middle American River and pan for gold. Follow 49 to Placerville and stop at Coloma and pan for gold at the place that started the California Gold Rush. Then go to Placerville. There are so many restaurants and places to stay I would not know where to begin. Then head back to SF on 50 or you could head further South on 49 and start down the trail to the Southern Mother Load, which is another whole trip! If you need more details, PM me through the forum and I will help you all I can. Take Care, Matt
  3. Jonathan, I would agree with Chris and FlakMagnet. When you get to a new spot, what are the settings on your detector that you start with? Whatever you had it on from the last spot? Do you try to max out the detector to start and then detune it to suit the conditions? If yes, then what setting do start to de-tune first? Would you lower the gain first, then try lowering the audio into quiet or vice versa? Which settings effect your detector the most? For instance, if able to run with Gain at 15 and Audio in Quiet and achieve a smooth threshold, or run with the Gain at 9 and Audio in Boost and achieve a smooth threshold, which would you prefer? At what point are you cofident that the detector running to the best of its capabilities? In the new video, start at a new spot and go throught the sequences that you normally go through when you begin your hunt. Show some footage of actually hunting in those settings whether or not you get a nugget. How do you hunt in the brushy areas without burning? I would like to see some footage of that! Thanks. Take Care, Matt
  4. Chris, Here are some links to some of the accessories I told you about for the Rhino. The first guy has the back seat/roll cage converson. Doesn't look safe for high speed, but gets the added seating. Add a Yakima bike rack that mounts in the back trailer insert for a way to hold 4 detectors instead of bikes. As you can see, there are a lot of options. I wish they would make them street legal. I have driven mine through town in Downieville and have not been hassled yet. I just go slow, but you never know when a cop will be in a bad mood. I have been to places in the Rhino that I could only dream of getting into with my Toyota. Also, ebay has a lot of Rhino stuff. Take Care, Matt http://www.jeffjonesoffroad.com/rhino.html http://www.hunterworks.com/ http://www.everythingoffroad.com/rhino_products.html
  5. I want to credit Paseclipse from over at Bill’s Nuggetshooter Forum for giving me this idea and all the other people that commented on this topic. It seems that keeping the coil wire where you want it is always a problem. This is the solution that I just made. First, go to the local hardware store and buy some of the ¾” and 3/8” plastic cable clamps made by GB. They come in black or white. Also pick up some nylon screws and wing nuts. You will also need some black electrical tape. Cut three pieces of the black electrical tape about 3 inches long and lay them on top of each other and stick them together. Cut the stacked tape to 2-1/2” long, which is the circumference of the inside of the cable clamp. Stick the layered tape to the inside of the ¾” cable clamp and trim off the excess tape that will stick out of the sides because the tape width is more than the clamp. The tape makes up the size difference due to the shaft being a little smaller than the ¾” cable clamp. Sticking the tape to the clamp and not the shaft itself lets the stabilizer be adjusted up and down the lower shaft for use with different coils. Put the ¾” clamp around the lower shaft and start to thread a nylon screw through the hole in the cable clamp. Take one of the 3/8” cable clamps and pry it open so that the straight side of the clamp can have the nylon screw go through it. The 3/8” size allows the coil wire to move freely forward and back, but not sideways. By only inserting the straight side of the cable clamp, changing coils is no problem because the cable wire just snaps out of the cable clamp. Once the nylon screw is though all three holes, use a nylon wing nut to tighten down the cable clamp. The clamp will tighten up very well and not allow the coil wire to unwrap at the lower shaft. This is a very lightweight, inexpensive fix that uses no metal. All of the materials cost me less that 5 bucks and I will be able to make 6 of them. The pictures show everything. Hope this helps.
  6. I met up with Wes “Hawkeye” from Team AZO to try our luck detecting at an old ground sluice/hydraulic area. We had been to this spot a couple times before and had some luck finding nuggets. The day started out freezing cold with ice crystals covering most of the ground. After catching up for an hour or so it was time to start detecting. The cold morning turned into a nice warm day due to the fact that the hydraulic pit is oriented facing the Southern direction. This spot is covered with so much manzanita and brush that it makes detecting difficult. It also means that there is still potential to find nuggets hidden beneath the branches and in the roots. Taking the time to clear a spot by hand works or you can just Rambo through the brush and climb under and through everything to try to get your coil over every inch of ground. I don’t recommend the second method in the summer due to rattlesnakes. The morning part of the hunt produced no nuggets. After a break, towards the end of the day, I decided to try a spot right where we park. This area had produced nuggets in the past. Some of the nuggets from this area are very porous and are not easily detected by the GP series detectors. I figured it would be a good test for my new GPX4000. I immediately got a faint signal from a prior dig spot that my buddy had scratched at when he was using a White’s GMT. At that time (a few months ago), he asked me to check the hole with my Minelab because he was not sure if the sound was ground noise or a target. I went over the spot with my GP3000 and 8” mono Commander coil and got no response, not even a warble of the threshold. We left it as a ground noise or nothing at all. Attached are the pictures of the 2 nuggets that I got from the “ground noise” with my GPX4000 and Nuggetfinder 14” elliptical mono. These were at most between 4 and 6 inches deep. And yes, I reluctantly gave these nuggets to my buddy that originally detected them! The small one is .3 dwt. and the big one is 1.4 dwt. with a little smoky quartz attached in the middle. Only cleaned under the faucet with running water and toothpick.
  7. Montana, Great post. 20 nuggets from a worked out spot. Got to love that new GPX. Thanks for taking the time to make that post. Nice gold too. I hope to meet you at the outing in February. Wes and I are coming down together and plan to stay a couple extra days to hunt. Take Care, Matt
  8. Hey Wes, This Thursday looks good to me. I'll call tonight or tomorrow. Take Care, Matt
  9. Dustin, It looks like he does some really nice work from what I see on his web site. I'll have to give him a call when I want to have something made for Courtney. Why don't you and Crimson have him cut and polish that specie that Crimson scored a couple years ago? You going out at all this weekend? It sure is cold out there, almost too cold, but the sun is shining. Let me know if you are going out. Take Care, Matt
  10. Hi Chris, I was hoping to hear a report on the new battery cables that you were testing for the GPX for use with the older style battery connector. I see on my older Reed's battery that there is a hole under the voltage sticker so I am assuming that is the way to adjust the voltage, but on the newer battery with the built in amp I don'y see that. I will look up what the correct voltage is, but just to make sure, do you know what it should be? Also, can the adjustments be made by me, or does the battery need to be sent in? I would like to have my setup ready for the outing next month. I would also like a copy of the Rich Hill book that you wrote and need a couple other things, so I will email you regarding those purchases. Thanks. Take Care, Matt
  11. El Dorado, I see from your website that you are located in Northern California. That is some very beautiful jewelry that you are making. What did that rock look like before you polished it? Do the stones that you cut have to be a certain size, or can you cut smaller specimens as well? How much do you charge to cut and polish rocks like that? Thanks. Take Care, Matt
  12. Bob, I have noticed the same thing in the pounded spots. Most nuggets that I have found have holes in them. I guess that if I want to make a pedant I won't have to have a bail attached. The ground that Wes and I were working is very unstable, mineralized ground. That was the first time that I have had to de-tune my machine. It took a little time to finally get the machine to quiet down, but when I was able to smooth out the threshold, you see the results. Most of the ground that I hunt is mild and I am able max out the gain and audio. I also noticed in mild ground that running in Normal and not Sensative, I could not get the head of my pick within a couple feet of my coil, but in sensative I was able to come within a foot before I got a signal. I like trying to get the most out of the detector. After the outing, maybe Wes and I could get a "lesson" on hunting in AZ since we bought our detedctors from Chris! I am not leaving AZ without a nugget! Wes, I can't wait for the outing. I'll see you soon for our hunt. Reno Chris, I hope to meet you in AZ. I spend a lot of time prospecting in the Downieville area and enjoy reading your posts and your website. I spent more of my time last summer exploring for detecting spots than I did dredging. Take Care, Matt
  13. Wes, I'll call this evening and we'll plan it. I'm free most of the week. Kirk already has the nuggets and was stoked that I was the one that dug them up and not somebody else. Lesson he learned was that you have to dig until YOU are satisfied that there is no target in the ground. I did not check his target with the White's. He is learning. I want to spend more time with the GPX4000 in that spot, that porous gold is beautiful. You can see in the shadows in the pics how porous and holes. Dustin, That is the first piece that I have seen come out of there with quartz attached. It is almost like a quartz crystal that has a grey smokey tint to it. It is shiny, reflective, translucent and looks almost like a piece of glass was stuck in the middle of the nugget. The pictures don't do them justice. The camera I was using sucks! Take Care, Matt
  14. Since I figured out how to finally post and add pics, My speaker hat. I made this hat for use with my GP3000 and the Reed's battery/amp combo that I bought from Chris. I only used it twice before I received my GPX from Chris. First, I bought a wide brim hat that was a little stiffer around the brim. I went down to the truck stop and went into the CB repair area a got two 12 buck speakers that are pretty light weight. I got a adapter plug from Radio Shack so the speaker plug fit into the detector battery. I then took apart the speaker casing and cut small round holes in the brim of the hat. I then sandwitched the brim of the hat with the speaker casings facing down. I threaded the wires through a small cut in the back side of the hat brim so the wires just go down your back to the battery. I placed the speakers a little more toward the front of the hat to utilize the natural shape of ears. Now, this can be modified for only 1 speaker in the front, back, or one side. You will see in the pics that I took the chin string and wrapped it over to the of the hat and tightened it till I had the speakers at the position above my ears that I wanted them. The entire hat weighs a bit more than a set of headphones! I was totally amazed at how well this worked. I made this as an option for Montana's dual speaker system as I think that with light weight batteries a backpack style harness is not necessary. Hope this helps! Take Care, Matt Ps Chris I need to get a new amp for the GPX, but I'll call cause I need some other stuff too.
  15. Quite a while back, Montana posted a topic regarding the method he uses to help eliminate false signals and keep undo stress from damaging the coil wire at the plug connector to the detector. This is the method that I have used for the last couple years. I thought that this might help as I never have had a problem with false signals from bumping the wire since I started using these. If you notice when you detect, bumping the wire near the connector can cause a false signal and this almost eliminates that. Also, all my coil wires are still totally stong and straight at the connector plug after a lot of use. Makes coils last a lot longer. It really workes well on the Extreme and 3000 since you have to reach for the same spot to ground balance, but I still put them on my GPX. These are cheap electrical 1/4" cable clamps that I bought at OSH for a couple bucks for 18. I sandwitched one in each of the screw holes for the detector handle and the handle still screws down tight. Hope these pics work. These are the black clamps so they are a little hard to see, but the cable just snaps into these and it is really secure. PS Chris your videos are a must for any person that swings a detector! Great Job!
  16. With skin cancer on the rise this also helps keep the sun off my face and head. I am always in such a hurry to swing the detector that I forget to put on sun screen. My wife just had a BAD skin cancer removed from her face an she is only 34. Now if I could just figure out how to combine this idea with a hat that will hold my beer and keep it cold!
  17. Chris, Thanks! You may use that information how ever you would like. Glad that I can help out. These are so inexpensive, you might include a couple with each detector sale! Take Care, Matt
  18. I should add that I only sandwitch 1 of the sides of the cable connector into the handle so you can easily change coils at any time here are pics of the cable slightly out of the clamps and the connector. I put the straight side of the cable clamp into the handle screw.
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